diy handbuilt portable boombox - 18650 battery manufacturers

by:MERITSUN     2020-01-28
diy handbuilt portable boombox  -  18650 battery manufacturers
Hello everyone, in this Instructure I will show you how I built this simple boombox with plywood through some hand held power tools.
Building speakers and other small projects that I can actually use in my daily life has always been my passion and hobby.
We all like this feeling when we tell others "Yes, I do; -).
So this is a very simple boom box made entirely of plywood and mid-fiber plates.
Since I only have limited tools, it took me 9 days to build.
This boom box has 4 speakers
Two subwoofer and two tweeters give a total of 30 watts of power.
I used two different tweeters.
Silk diaphragm and piezoelectric diaphragm.
I decided to do this because I realized that the piezoelectric tweeter covers real high-frequency notes better than the silk diaphragm tweeter.
The Boombox is designed with a dual backward passive radiator.
The passive radiator is a replacement for the bass port.
They take up less space inside the enclosure compared to the bass ports and prevent ventilation airflow noise.
But one of my favorite things about them is that they vibrate when the bass rings, which makes the whole boombox look cooler; -).
Boombox runs on 12.
The 6 volt, 3 S 2600 mah 18650 battery pack provides up to 6 hours of playback depending on volume.
You guys can play longer with the NCR 3400 mah 18650 battery.
Boombox supports FM, USB, Bluetooth, SD, AUX, also with IR remote control and on-
Speaker buttons for easy music control and tuning.
I ordered almost all of my components from AliExpress.
Most components are cheaper there, but depending on where you live, it may take a month or two to get to your place. 1.
Yamaha TA2024 amplifier X 1: is a special class T amplifier.
What's special about a class T amplifier is that it provides audio fidelity for a class
Power efficiency of class AB and ClassD amplifiers.
When it runs under a 4 ohm load, it has 15 watts per channel amplifier.
I have used this amp in another project before and am impressed that it is not as hot as other amplifiers with the same specifications, so I decided to use this amp in this project. 2.
3 inch, 15 watt bass X 2: Select the speaker whose impedance matches the amp you are using so that you do not face any heating problems with the amp.
Here I chose a pair of 3 inch 4 Ohm bass which will be a perfect match according to the amplifier's data sheet. 3. DC-
DC step-down converter x1: is a module that reduces voltage very effectively using the switching principle.
Any voltage regulator ic like IC7805 is better and more effective.
Since we are using 12, we need it for our project.
The 6 Volt battery powers the 5 volt audio decoder.
So we need it to drop by 12.
6 to 5 volts. 4.
Passive radiator (60X90mm)
The X2 radiator is a replacement for the reflection or bass ports.
Typically, for small enclosures, a long port is required for low-frequency production, so passive radiators are used.
The passive radiator also avoids the usual airflow noise in the port speakers.
The main factor affecting the performance of the speaker based on the passive radiator is the quality of the metal plate on the radiator.
The quality should be changed for tuning.
Always try to use the same or larger passive radiator as the Speaker when using the bass speaker (not too big).
In this project I chose a rectangular passive radiator and I decided to put it on the back of the boombox. 5.
3 S 12 V 18650 10A bms x 1 BMS (
Battery Management System
It is very important when charging batteries in series.
BMS ensures that all batteries are charged and discharged.
It ensures that the same amount of current is obtained from all batteries when used.
BMS also limits the maximum current extracted from the battery pack so that the battery does not overload.
There is no voltage regulator in BMS, so it is very important to use 12.
6 V charger when charging the battery pack. 6.
Frequency crossover x2: there is usually an inductor for crossover (copper coil)
Including thick wires and a series of capacitors.
Therefore, there are 1 input and 2 outputs crossed.
The inductor shields high frequency.
The output of the inductor is given to the subwoofer.
The capacitor shields the low frequency.
Therefore, the high frequency output of the capacitor is provided to the tweeter.
If the output of the amplifier is directly connected to a tweeter unit without a capacitor level, the tweeter unit may explode. 7. 12. 6 volt Charger(2. 1 mm pin)X 1:.
Charge the battery BMS system.
XL6009 DC adjustable boost boostconverter x1: The module also works on the switching principle.
This is an acceleration module.
Here we use it so that we get a constant 12.
Even if the battery voltage is below 12 volts, the power input of the amplifier is 6 volts. 6V9.
Tweeter x2: tweeter covers all high frequency notes in the music.
Here we are using the piezoelectric and magnetic wire diaphragm treble.
I tried different combinations and I was most satisfied when I used both combinations at the same time.
Be sure that yoy is using a filter capacitor or cross brfore using a tweeter. 10.
DC Jack(2. 1 mm)
X 1: charging port 11.
Bluetooth audio decoder x1: get input from different sources such as USB, AUX, FM, Bluetooth, SD et122.
18650 battery(
Capacity of your choice)
X 3: Power Room.
There are 1000 different manufacturers of 18650 batteries.
Be sure to get one from a good manufacturer.
It can become dangerous if 18650 batteries are defective and the charge is not working properly.
I have attached two types of links I personally purchased and found it both good and safe. 13.
DC toggle switch x1: connecting line 4000 uf (or higher)
, 16 V capacitor wood glue 17.
Painting 18. Wood sealer19. Sand paper20. 3mm LEDs21.
Thick double sided pad tape22.
All necessary screens 23.
18mm plywood. 24. 5mm plywood 25.
M3 and M4 nuts and bolts.
Philips screwdriver 2.
Soldering Iron 3. Jig Saw4. Sand paper5. File(
Plane and triangle)6. Rotory Tool(
Sanding bit, disc cutting bit, hole cutting or engraving bit)7. Hot glue gun8. Scissors9. Pliers10. Drill set1.
Total output power: 30 w 2. 12.
6 volts, 2600 mah battery3.
6 hours of play time (
Depends on volume)4.
Charging time: 3 hours max5
Dual passive radiator 6.
USB, AUX, FM, Bluetooth and SD card 7 are supported.
Button function and IR remote8.
Pywood case and stainless steel handle.
The month Neodenium wire diaphrag and the piezoelectric tweeter. Superb Bass1.
The first step is to draw the design on a piece of plywood with 5mm.
The design should be determined based on the size and location of the speakers you use.
In my example, I used 3 inch speakers, so the measurements were made based on this. 2.
Use a clamp saw to cut this shape off the paper.
Be very careful when you do this because you can easily hurt yourself. 3.
Archive the edges to make them smooth and even. 1.
Draw 2 circles with a diameter of 3 inch where you want to place the speakers. 2.
Connect the cutting guide to the rotary tool.
Use cutting or engraving bits.
I used a engraving bit so I could cut out the circle slowly and smoothly. 3.
Drill a hole somewhere in the circle near the edge.
Pass the cutting device through the hole from the other side, then start cutting and move to the edge.
Once you reach the edge, walk along the circle. 4.
Cut off all 3 inch holes like this. 5.
1 inch tweeter holes can be drilled using drill bits and drill bits. 6.
Using the disc cutting bit, cut the square hole of the Bluetooth decoder and Dc switch 7.
Place the speakers on 3 inch holes and mark the drill points of the M3 bolts that will be used to connect the speakers to the front panel 8.
Drill these holes with 3mm drill bits. 9.
Archive and smooth holes of switches and decoders using triangle files. 1.
Place the front panel on a 18mm plywood and draw the Profile 2.
Leave a gap of 8mm between the two to draw a second profile inside the first.
This 8mm will be the thickness of our walls.
Drill four 1 inch holes in each corner and touch the inner profile.
This is done so that we get a point when we start cutting with a clamp saw, and it also helps when cutting the curve. 4.
Place the clamp saw in one of the holes and start cutting the ring.
Cut the inner contour first, then cut the outer film 5.
Also cut out 3 rings like this. 1.
As shown in the figure, apply wood glue on both surfaces to glue all the rings together.
Wipe the excess glue with a cloth. 2.
If the ring is not perfectly aligned, you don't have to worry because we will polish everything to perfection in the next steps. 3.
When the load is applied during drying, the wood glue works best.
People usually use clips to do the job, but since I don't have them, I use a big bucket full of water to act as a compression load. 4.
Let the glue dry overnight. 1.
All major defects can be easily polished using a rotary tool and a sanding drill.
The remaining sanding is done manually with different grades of sandpaper, from rough to super smooth sandpaper 3.
Sand it until you are satisfied with it.
In order to make the passive radiator work properly, it is very important that the shell is fully sealed. 1.
Cover the interior of the frame with 3 layers of wood glue. 2.
Plywood usually has a cross section of a small hole.
If you have such holes on your frame, fill them with glue or other Mseal-like sealant, let it dry, and then polish off the excess. 1.
Place the frame on the 5mm plywood or laminated medium fiber board. 2.
Draw the outline on the paper. 3.
Cut the back plate using a clamp saw, just like we did with the front panel. 4.
Use the clamp saw to cut the holes of the passive radiator and use the file to make them perfectly smooth. 5.
Drill holes for DC charging jacks. 6.
Drill the screw hole around the panel to connect it to the frame. 7.
The counter uses a larger drill bit to sink these holes so that the screw head is flush with the surface. I used a small stainless steel cabinet door handle. 1.
The hole of the handle is drilled onto the middle ring of frame 2.
I use a rectangular density board inside so that the load is spread evenly across all 3 layers, not just one. 3.
Tighten the bolts with a steel gasket in the middle. 1.
The first thing I connected was The Power LED with a 10 k resistor 2.
Then I connected the audio decoder and the power switch and then the speaker. 3.
I decided to use only the Qualcomm part of the frequency crossover.
So I removed that part and attached it to the front panel. 4.
To prevent the nuts and bolts, the tweeter is glued to it.
All areas where air leakage is possible are covered with hot glue. 1.
A matching hole was also drilled on the frame.
The width of these holes should be slightly smaller than the screws you plan to use. 2.
As shown in the figure, apply a thick layer of double-sided tape to the frame, and the excess part is cut off with a razor.
This layer is used as a pad to help seal the case. 3.
Without removing the yellow film, the back plate is screwed to the frame. 1.
Make sure all 3 cells have the same voltage2.
Connect the battery to BMS according to the circuit diagram. 3.
BMS will reset and start working for the first time only after the charger is connected to the output. 1.
Connect the input of the buck and boost converter to the output of the battery pack. (
Be careful with polarity)2.
Connect the output of the boost converter to the multimeter and turn the gold screw until the output voltage shows 12. 6 volts. 3.
Similarly, connect the output of the step-down converter to the multimeter and turn the small potentiometer until the output voltage shows 5 volts. 1.
The switch and the DC Jack are connected to the rear panel. 2.
The output of the boost converter is connected to a 4700 uf capacitor. 3.
Rubber-based adhesive (fevi bond)
Applied to the edge of the passive radiator and around its cut hole.
After waiting for 10 minutes, the radiator is pressed and stuck in the desired position. 4.
The remaining components are also placed using this glue and are connected to each other using wires according to the circuit diagram. 5.
Hot glue can also be used as insurance. 1.
According to the circuit diagram, all the wires on the front panel are connected to the respective points on the amplifier and the source. 2.
Apply wood glue, the frame is connected to the front panel, as shown in the figure, and the load is placed on the top. (
Be careful not to damage the speakers when doing this)1.
Cover the entire front panel, back panel and steel handle using plastic tape and newsprint. 2.
Polish the edges and corners of the front and rear panels to align them with the main frame. 3.
Use smooth sandpaper for final sanding. 4.
Cover the frame again with 2 layers of wood sealing machine and sand.
This is done to prevent the wood from absorbing the varnish when spraying the varnish. 5.
Hang the boombox through the handle in the open area and start spraying the gloss varnish evenly without the formation of water droplets.
Apply 3 layers of varnish. 6.
Add 4 rubber feet so the speakers don't move around because of vibration while playing music.
That's it. you're done :-)
I wish I had made the instructions clear.
Please let me know what you think about my boombox in the comments section.
I had to use my only tool to build boombox, so some of the methods I use plywood are wrong, please let me know where I have to improve.
In the meantime, please feel free to ask me if anyone has any questions about the building.
If you guys like my request for guidance, please vote for me in the audio contest. Thank you :-)
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