convert a perfectly good cordless drill to a corded one - 3.7 volt rechargeable lithium ion battery

When the battery pack dies, convert the cordless drill into a 12 V battery pack.
About twenty years ago, I suddenly thought of a state-of-the-art thing, a porter cable with a 12 volt cordless electric drill. (
The highest voltage at that time).
It comes with a charger, a steel suitcase and two nicad battery packs.
I have had a lot of good use over the years.
Battery packs began to die about eight years ago.
I bought a new one for about $50 and have died since then.
At that point, I ended up getting three dead batteries and a very good drill bit that I couldn't use.
I'm going to end up rebuilding two batteries with a new NiMH battery, but for now, I decided that as long as it's a 12 volt electric drill, it can run from a 12 volt battery pack and I have a couple of battery packs.
This battery box is easy to convert.
Some of them may be harder or easier than mine.
You have to open it and design it to securely secure the contact plate in place with the connected wires.
If you want to do this with a bit less than 12 volts, you have to identify a way to reduce the voltage to a safe level.
It is the easiest way to connect the resistance in series.
If your bit voltage is higher, I do not know of any easy way to provide a higher voltage.
At every step of the wiring, it is best to check the wiring with a continuity tester or ohchrer to determine whether the connection is complete, whether there is no opening or short circuit.
Before cutting, drilling, check the components to determine the best path for the wires.
It is a good idea to mark the end of the base and the top of the shell to prevent confusion.
If you have a problem with my instructions, drill a hole from your hand and light your hair or burn your house, all the letters about these questions should be given to me
You will get 16 points soon.
After sending the appropriate handling fee to his post box in Nigeria, $4 million. )
Main parts :-
An old battery pack
A lighter plug and wire, the heavier the better.
My look looks like gauge 14 with a replaceable fuse on the plug.
Cordis, about 7 feet long.
Try to find a wire long enough to reach the battery pack comfortably from where you will be working. -
The rubber hose is short in length and is used to eliminate the strain through the wire tightly, about 4 inch. -Fuse -
Fuse size is not important.
It is mainly to prevent fire or meltdown caused by short circuit.
5 amps may work.
If it blows, it gets bigger. -
Direct fuse holder (
If you don't have a wire built in. )-
2 or 3 tie packs for fixed rope and strain relief tools :-
Electrical tester for checking polarity, voltage, continuity. -Soldering iron-Screwdriver-
Diagonal cutting machine
The borehole determines the polarity of the contact plate.
Fortunately, I was marked outside the box.
If your battery pack has any capacity, you can read the polarity with an electrical tester.
It may still work if you get it wrong, but the direction switch will work backwards.
Even worse, if there is a diode that can stop it from working.
It is a good idea to mark the polarity with tape or sharpie to prevent confusion. (
I am an expert in confusion and can provide reference)
Turn on one of the batteries and remove the battery assembly.
Cut the lower cells that fill the body.
Throw them away
No, don't throw them away.
Rechargeable batteries and button batteries should be disposed of at the authorized battery collection location.
Take them to the local Radio Shack and get them thrown away.
Remove the heat sensor, which is a small metal thing sandwiched between the batteries connected to the third contact plate (
Or leave it in if it doesn't get in the way).
This leaves two dead cells in the hope that they will not be too dirty and will not be corroded, and these dead cells are suitable for installing "towers" with contact plates ".
If your cells are not available or the box is in a different shape, you can carve a piece of wood that fits the box and can hold the contact plate.
Silicone caulking, friendly plastic or Fimo can also be used.
Drill a hole at the bottom of the case where the hose will pass through.
Screw the wire into the hose and pass through the hole.
It is possible to tie a knot on the rope, or to add a tie belt at the back to prevent the rope from pulling out and tightening the welded connection.
Weld the wire to the remaining battery assembly, or to the connecting line, contact plate, or battery body (
It's not ideal if you can avoid it.
If you do, please note that applying a high temperature to the battery can produce unpredictable results.
Wear protective glasses and clothes at least.
It's usually not a good idea to work naked with electric tools.
So is cooking bacon. )
Make an interval block that will cling to the space left by the removed battery to securely secure the remaining battery/contact assembly in the tower.
I made mine with all sorts of wood, one of which carved a tunnel and allowed a wire to pass through the other side.
This can be made of a piece of wood, friendly plastic, paper paste, etc.
It is difficult enough to determine the resistance to the pressure inserted into the box.
Pull the wire out of the hose and tighten the tie belt.
Assemble the parts and play with the pieces, wires and screws carefully.
Make sure the screw does not pierce the wire.
When you put all the parts together, close the case and screw it together. (
Note: There is no next step.
Don't click that button.
Don't say I never warned you. )